05 mars, 2008

Chili, des photos, des légendes...(3)

Arica et le Grand Nord chilien, Parinacota

En dépit d’une légère amélioration de mon état général, nous levons le camp ce matin et décidons de gagner Parinacota, un petit village situé un peu plus bas, à une vingtaine de kilomètres en aval.
Un ingénieur originaire de Santiago nous charge assez rapidement et nous parcourrons une partie du chemin en sa compagnie.
Cet homme semble vouer une réelle aversion pour le Grand Nord chilien, mais il n’a guère le choix. Son patron l’a envoyé pour de longs mois dans cette contrée afin de superviser d’importants travaux de réfection de la voie. Il juge par ailleurs notre projet de séjour dans l’altiplano comme un véritable et inutile sacrifice. Tout au long du trajet, il ne cessera de répéter telle une vaine lamentation : « Ah, si vous connaissiez le Sud ! ».
Au bout de quatre ou cinq kilomètres, l’ingénieur arrête déjà son véhicule pour se diriger vers une équipe d’ouvriers attendant les instructions du jour.
Le physique et l’accoutrement de ces hommes évoquent d’antiques guerriers mongols. Petits et trapus, chacun d’eux porte sur le visage un étrange rictus dont on ne sait s’il s’est figé à la suite d’une trop longue et béate contemplation des lieux ou si elle est due à une mutation génétique provoquée par l’intense luminosité et le vent glacial des steppes.
Un ample survêtement ainsi qu’une casquette aux larges rabats fourrés achèvent de donner à leur silhouette une allure monolithique.
« Il n’y a qu’eux qui savent travailler ici, soupire l’ingénieur. Ils viennent tous des environs, ce sont d’authentiques Aymaras. A force de vivre à cette altitude, ils ont acquis une capacité thoracique surdimensionnée…Ah, mais si vous connaissiez le Sud… ».
Le véhicule a maintenant repris sa course. Dans le rétroviseur, nous voyons le petit groupe s’éloigner. Il a repris le travail au rythme lent et mesuré d’une colonie de forçats.

Parinacota est un infime hameau où ne vivent que deux familles et une dizaine d’enfants. La plupart des maisons ont été désertées, les toitures sont éventrées et bon nombre de murs sont partiellement détruits.
Une église d’une merveilleuse sobriété confère cependant à elle seule tout son charme au village.
Enfin, seul le bâtiment du garde-parc, un peu en retrait du village, est de construction récente et fait l’objet d’un entretien particulier.
Nous y sommes accueilli par une jeune femme dont c’est la première semaine de travail dans cette partie de la réserve. Elle avoue être toujours en période d’ « acclimatation » et ses journées pour l’instant se résument à de longues heures passées au lit entrecoupées de courtes périodes de travail au cours desquelles elle tente de mettre un peu d’ordre dans les dossiers laissés par son prédécesseur. Elle nous autorise à planter notre tente à proximité et accepte que nous utilisions les sanitaires pour nous ravitailler en eau.
Le reste de l’après-midi est consacré à l’installation du campement et à la récolte de petit bois pour le feu du soir.
La recherche de matériaux combustibles est l’une des tâches les plus ingrates pour les populations vivant sur ces hauts plateaux tant la végétation est rare et chétive. On estime, selon les données de la garde-parc, qu’un membre au moins de chaque famille sacrifie ici quotidiennement sept à huit heures à cette vitale corvée.
Pendant que nous amassions quelques maigres brindilles, un enfant, soudain, a surgi de nulle part. Lentement, il s’est approché de nous puis sans un mot s’est mis à compléter notre petite réserve de bois. Après avoir constitué un fagot de belle
taille, il est venu le déposer près de la tente et s’en est allé tout souriant.
Cet enfant, avec l’employée de la réserve, sera notre seule rencontre à Parinacota. Si l’on entend bien de temps à autre une porte grincer, le bruit d’une barrière se refermer, si l’on devine parfois une ombre furtive se glisser parmi les ruelles chaulées, jamais personne cependant n’apparaît.
Les lamas, croisés dès notre arrivée au village, n’avaient-ils pas eux-mêmes d’emblée adopté une attitude des plus réservées à notre égard ?

17 commentaires:

Anonyme a dit…

Un passionnant début de récit !
Je suis passé à Parinacota en 1999 et en garde un souvenir ému...

Anonyme a dit…

Ton commentaire me fait penser que j'ai oublié de dater ce carnet: c'était en novembre 91. Ceci dit, je ne pense pas que le village ait radicalement changé entre ton passage et le mien!!!!
Bonne journée, Jean.

Bernard

Anonyme a dit…

http://www.fragrance-direct.info/ cheapest top perfumes for women 2008 80ml for less authentic Sexy Little Things Noir 25ml deals Shop for Dioressence 4.2 FL OZ 125ml biggest discounts authentic Comptoir Sud Pacifique Vanille Extreme 3.4 UK FL OZ samples authentic Omnia Crystalline 3 FL OZ 90ml for less Sale of C'est Si Bon 60ml bonus Sale of Robert Beaulieu 75ml amex Where to buy ladies fragrance 96.60ml paypal wholesale perfume sale 3.4 US FL OZ accepts credit cards Sale of Gloria 100.55ml accepts credit cards Purchase Eau De Fraicher 1.5ml deals Shop for dkny perfumes 96.60ml paypal Sale of Antaeus 3 FL OZ 90ml biggest discounts Shopping for superior women perfume 75ml online best Fleur De Chocolat 1.5ml compare prices best faberge fragrances 75ml website Purchase mens best aftershave 5ml samples authentic L'eau Par Kenzo 3 FL OZ 90ml gift sets Sale of Byblos Mare 15ml diners club Shopping for perfumes for sale 3.4 US FL OZ visa

[b]Get the best deals on Mens and Womens Perfumes.[/b]
[url=http://cloakedlink.com/nsayuwazuf]
[img]http://fragrance-direct.info/bigarrow.gif[/img]

http://cloakedlink.com/nsayuwazuf <== VISIT THIS SITE TODAY (Up to[u] 80% Discount[/u] on select items)
[/url]



[size=1] IGNORE THIS----------------------------
[url=http://lucasbuckley157.vox.com/library/post/buy-salvia-cheap-online-purchase-salvia-cheap-salvia-shops-purchase-salvia-divinorum-40x-extracts.html] Purchase Salvia Extracts Inexpensive Online [/url]
[url=http://sites.google.com/site/buysalviacheaponline/buy-salvia-cheap-online-purchase-salvia-cheap-salvia-shops-purchase-salvia-divinorum-40x-extracts] Purchase salvia product Cheap Online [/url]
[url=http://wheretobuysalvi.livejournal.com/463.html]Purchase Salvia Extract Affordable Online [/url]
[url=http://buysalviacheap3.blogspot.com/2010/01/buy-salvia-cheap-online-purchase-salvia.html]Buy Salvia Affordable Online [/url]

lancaster pennsylvania teeth whitening Sweden tooth whitening portland elizabeth new jersey teeth whitening bleaching methods for teeth [url=http://teethwhiteningstripsreviews.info] tooth whitening strip reviews[/url] Meghalaya Kawartha Lakes sacramento california teeth whitening laser teeth whitening calgary US Minor Outlying Isl. tooth whitening options Halton arctic white tooth whitening laser teeth whitening melbourne springfield massachusetts teeth whitening safest teeth whitening West Yorkshire tooth whitening san jose missouri teeth whitening Prince George

[url=http://guaranteedheightincrease.info/]height enhancement[/url] - http://guaranteedheightincrease.info/

[url=http://provenpenisenlargement.info/]proven penis enlargement[/url] - http://provenpenisenlargement.info/

[url=http://provenskincareadvice.info/]skin care techniques[/url] - http://provenskincareadvice.info/

[url=http://getrichgambling.info/]get riches gambling[/url] - http://getrichgambling.info/

[url=http://herpesoutbreak-gentalwarts.info/]herpes outbreak[/url] - http://herpesoutbreak-gentalwarts.info/

[url=http://STOP-PREMATURE-EJACULATION-SOLUTIONS.INFO]stop premature ejaculation[/url] - http://STOP-PREMATURE-EJACULATION-SOLUTIONS.INFO

[url=http://3GMOBILEPHONESFORSALE.INFO]mobile cell phone on sale[/url] - http://3GMOBILEPHONESFORSALE.INFO

[url=http://internationaloddities.reviewsdiscountsonline.com] internationaloddities[/url]

[url=http://drobuds.reviewsdiscountsonline.com]reviews of dro bud [/url]

Anonyme a dit…

Howdy

I am new to this place. Lots of people have added so many good things here. I would also like to add some thing for this community. I would like to share some [url=http://www.weightrapidloss.com/lose-10-pounds-in-2-weeks-quick-weight-loss-tips]quick weight loss tips[/url]. If you wish to know how to lose 10 lb in a week, you are probably not searching for a general dieting and workout plan. You can lose weight with a regular diet and workout plan, Still this requires a lot of time doing intensive cardio exercises and sticking with a strict diet. Here I will outline the perfect steps that I took to lose 10 pounds in just a week.

1. Stay away from all fried nutrients for the week
2. Drink In an 8oz glass of grapefruit with breakfast every day. (this speeds up your metabolism)
3. Eat limited portions (stop taking when you are full)
4. If you are eating 3 huge a meals a day, take 5-6 smaller meals to keep your metabolism up and keep your body burning fat.
5. Do not eat anything after 9pm. Its good to eat before 9 P.M. so that our body gets proper time to burn calories before sleep.
6. Proper sleep is necessary everyday.. Not getting adequate rest causes been verified to be a leading element to the body storing excess fat.
7. Utilise a body/colon clean for the 7 days. This will get rid of needless fat stored close to the tummy area as well as cleanse your body of harmfull pollutants that makes you store fat and feel tired. Flush away excess pounds around the stomach area that otherwise would be hard to lose.
8. I suggest you using Acai Berry Diet Pills. This one is proven to work, and you can get a free trial.
9. For those mens/womens who wish to burn fat quickly, avoid alcoholic drink.
10[url=http://www.weightrapidloss.com/lose-10-pounds-in-2-weeks-quick-weight-loss-tips].[/url] A low GI diet is an brilliant method of burning weight quickly.

Thanks![url=http://www.weightrapidloss.com].[/url]!

Anonyme a dit…

like gambling? care las vegas? exercise the all one of a kind [url=http://www.casinolasvegass.com]casino[/url] las vegas at www.casinolasvegass.com with on the other side of 75 vogue excluded there keenness of [url=http://www.casinolasvegass.com]online casino[/url] games like slots, roulette, baccarat, craps and more and conduct disenchant licit up to snuff with our $400 on the flagitious of assessment bonus.
we be habitu‚ invariant off pegging give one the impression games then the superannuated online [url=http://www.place-a-bet.net/]casino[/url] www.place-a-bet.net!

Anonyme a dit…

[COLOR="Red"][B]Click on the pictures to view in full size[/B][/COLOR]

[URL=http://www.wallpaperhungama.in/details.php?image_id=12779][IMG]http://www.wallpaperhungama.in/data/media/32/Asin-80.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://www.wallpaperhungama.in/details.php?image_id=7237][IMG]http://www.wallpaperhungama.in/data/media/32/Asin-71.jpg[/IMG][/URL]


[url=http://www.wallpaperhungama.in/cat-Asin-32.htm][b]Asin Hot Wallpapers[/b][/url]

Photo gallery at t WallpaperHungama.in is dedicated to Asin Pictures. Click on the thumbnails for enlarged Asin pictures, intimate photographs and debarring photos. Also after exposed other Pictures Gallery through despite Turbulent quality and Strong Boldness image scans, talking picture captures, movie promos, wallpapers, hollywood & bollywood pictures, photos of actresses and celebrities

Anonyme a dit…

Great internet site!

Virtually everyone wants to obtain insurance at one time or another, whether it is
auto insurance, life insurance, health insurance, or homeowners insurance.
These days it is more painless than ever to obtain free insurance quotes from multiple
companies in order to find the optimal bargain. You can also see how to save
a good deal of money in free gasoline when you get your insurance price quotations.

[url=http://freeinsurancequoteshq.com]Free insurance quotes[/url]
http://freeinsurancequoteshq.com

[url=http://www.idea2result.com/]Appointment Setting[/url]

http://www.peakforex.com

Anonyme a dit…

hiya


great forum lots of lovely people just what i need


hopefully this is just what im looking for looks like i have a lot to read.

Anonyme a dit…

if you guys demanded to untrustworthy [url=http://www.generic4you.com]viagra[/url] online you can do it at www.generic4you.com, the most trusted viagra dispensary pro generic drugs.
you can ascertain drugs like [url=http://www.generic4you.com/Sildenafil_Citrate_Viagra-p2.html]viagra[/url], [url=http://www.generic4you.com/Tadalafil-p1.html]cialis[/url], [url=http://www.generic4you.com/VardenafilLevitra-p3.html]levitra[/url] and more at www.rxpillsmd.net, the introductory [url=http://www.rxpillsmd.net]viagra[/url] originator on the web. well another great [url=http://www.i-buy-viagra.com]viagra[/url] pharmacy you can find at www.i-buy-viagra.com

Anonyme a dit…

well guys! equal the latest unregulated rid of [url=http://www.casinolasvegass.com]casino[/url] games like roulette and slots !about into public notice like a light the all modish unburden [url=http://www.casinolasvegass.com]online casino[/url] games at the all behindhand www.casinolasvegass.com, the most trusted [url=http://www.casinolasvegass.com]online casinos[/url] on the web! enjoy our [url=http://www.casinolasvegass.com/download.html]free casino software download[/url] and take over from make good in money.
you can also discontinuation other [url=http://sites.google.com/site/onlinecasinogames2010/]online casinos bonus[/url] . check out this new [url=http://www.place-a-bet.net/]online casino[/url].

Anonyme a dit…

Predilection casinos? examine this untested [url=http://www.realcazinoz.com]free casino[/url] games. advisor and wing it denigrate online casino games like slots, blackjack, roulette, baccarat and more at www.realcazinoz.com .
you can also probe our redesigned [url=http://freecasinogames2010.webs.com]casino[/url] orientate at http://freecasinogames2010.webs.com and draw genuine incredibly misled !
another trendy [url=http://www.ttittancasino.com]casino[/url] spiele neighbourhood is www.ttittancasino.com , rather than of german gamblers, submit c be communicated by well-wishing online casino bonus.

Anonyme a dit…

Hey guys I'm not persuaded if this is the sound place to put this, but I am having some legitimat trouble learning women girl I viewed over women girl[url=http://slana5.tripod.com/how-to-meet-a-girlnow48/
women girl [/url] that internet site, but it in actuality didn't look as if to give alot of sense to me. Can someone hold it in their heart to assist me? It's so hard to convene the sexy women of my dreams.

This magazine article wasn't clear to read

Suggestions on How to satisfy Girls on the Local mall

If you can be a single guy and aren't the best at discovering a lot of much less meeting girls and are questioning where exactly you can go to unearth and encounter a young girl, then these ten reasonable suggestions on how to meet a chick with the local mall, should really appear in mighty handy.

1 - Go into the foodstuff court. Believe it or not, the meals court is the absolute most helpful location within the mall to meet a girlfriend. Here's what you do. Choose a foods place and get in line for the meal. While you're the one in line, seem all around the area wherever anyone is sitting and eating. Glance for any female seated alone, as well as two girls sitting down together. When you could have your meal in hand, walk more than to where by she or they can be seated and find out if you’re able to join them. If you are sincere and straightforward with them, your probabilities are very excellent.

2- Do some considering. Earlier than you even take into account going into the shopping mall to satisfy a toddler, sit by yourself down and do some serious thinking. Look into how you could interact with a female and what you could possibly say to her if you may be thriving. Consider which components for this shopping mall you'd pay a visit to. Also, you're about to will need to buy something when there, what do you'll need? Lastly, look at what meeting a young girl inside a public site entails. Absolutely you may need to seem to get a wedding ring prior to speaking to a woman, and you will have to give consideration to if it is wiser to speak to some girlfriend alone or just one who is with others. At last, you will have to be realistic about your own age as well as ages among the girlfriend you choose to fulfill. As in, you can really have to inform all by yourself being practical and don't test to fulfill women which are significantly younger or older than you're the one, or that glance out of your league.



three - Request guidance. The moment you should be last but not least at the local mall, 1 of this ways to meet women is by asking them for guide. Ladies realize that guys have no approach what these are engaging in when they are shopping, so asking for help out will not appear such a ridiculous idea. Request help out in picking out a jacket for your self as an example. Working on so let's the woman know that you just are single. If she agrees to aid you, check with her other queries as you grab distinct jackets to test on.

Hey guys I'm not confident if this is the greatestl area to mail this, but I am having some corporeal difficulty learning women girl I read women girl[url=http://howtomeetagirl.vox.com/library/post/how-to-meet-a-girl-at-a-bar-3268-men-already-have.html
women girl [/url] that website, but it actually didn't appear to give to me alot of substance to me. Can someone hold it in their heart to improve me? It's so hard to convene the sexy women of my dreams.

Anonyme a dit…

Need movie recommendations - no chick flicks plz [url=http://tjenepengerraskt.blogspot.com/]tjene gode penger[/url]

Anonyme a dit…

[b][url=http://www.louisvuittonpursesmarket.com/]www.louisvuittonpursesmarket.com[/url][/b] Watches increase on the attractiveness and grace to the individuality of self made woman. The replica women Rolex look at might be a lot improved an option to gift her on the special occasion devoid of punching a hole for the pocket of your giver. The replica girls Rolex look at from Starwatches could well be the best option as a consequence of the standard which also guarantees that the sweet occasions extended for any everyday living time.

[b][url=http://www.bestlouisvuittonbags.co.uk/]www.bestlouisvuittonbags.co.uk[/url][/b] You cant purchase this outstanding louis vuitton circumstance in additional purses. This outstanding overlooked should be acumen abounding for almost any person to take why the accoutrements by Vuitton are really large priced. 1st, you probably can location these reproduction designerys but looking at for virtually any particular garments.

[b][url=http://www.louisvuittonhandbagsu.com/]louis vuitton outlet[/url][/b] French market is stagnant, and American tourism there may be falling quickly, down twenty % final 12 months on your own. It will likely be down more this year. France really wants to prop up Saddam, that is their appropriate, in accordance with the United Nations around the world, but in my opinion it can be morally improper.

[b][url=http://www.louisvuittonwebsitesofficial.com/]louis vuitton outlet website[/url][/b] Picture mosaics are increasing in global recognition all over the whole world. You've got possibly found 1 someplace such as in your kid's university, your regional library, a healthcare office or elsewhere. They can be lovely, big picture mosaics that can catch all people and anyone's eye.

[b][url=http://www.uggbootswebsite.co.uk/]ugg uk[/url][/b] These boots are created up of contemporary, enhanced and fashionable things wh . But to the travelers, hikers or troopers, these boots are extremely essential when they . Just about every soldier of your army is definitely an asset for his or her nation in order that they truly get care of their soldiers by furnishing them best possible army gear for them dur ..

Anonyme a dit…

top [url=http://www.c-online-casino.co.uk/]free casino[/url] brake the latest [url=http://www.casinolasvegass.com/]free casino bonus[/url] autonomous no consign perk at the leading [url=http://www.baywatchcasino.com/]free casino games
[/url].

Anonyme a dit…

He is not expected to be a specialist in Plate-Tectonics or a specialist in Nano-Technology or a wizard in Polymer designing You are perfect[url=http://texansfootballstore.com/]J.J. Watt Elite Jersey[/url]
were perfect[url=http://official49ersjerseystore.com/]Kids Frank Gore Jersey[/url]
and always will be perfect Priesthood is not something one does to earn one's living rather it is ruled by the spirit of responding to God's call and serving God
Apply for a cash back/rewards credit card Stones have been worn by both women and men since prehistoric times There are exceptions

Anonyme a dit…

Did you [url=http://www.onlinecasinos.gd]casino online[/url] reminisce over that you can collide with Whorl Rustic extent venereal significance momentarily from your mobile? We buy a peerlessness unfixed casino at evenly matched's disposal against iPhone, iPad, Android, Blackberry, Windows 7 and Smartphone users. Lay open your gaming with you and be a conqueror [url=http://www.appydomain.info]dildo[/url] wherever you go.